Sunday 17 May 2015
The sun shone brightly even although the air was
decidedly cool and we bade goodbye to the excellent Westhoek marina
and set off down the Ijzer river to visit the historical town
of Diksmuide and its surrounds, less well known to those of us brought up on
Empire history where 'facts' about towns like Ypres (Ieper) and Verdun, being more associated
with Commonwealth army battles, were taught us, but of special significance
to the Belgium people
-
As a center of Flemish nationalism, and because
-
This is where they stopped the German advance in
WWI thereby creating the start of the Western Front
A most pleasant cruise through pretty countryside once
again
until, some 11 kilometres later we come to the ‘Dodengang’ (Death
Trenches) site where part of the Belgian redoubt has been preserved. Passing some battlefield ruins we moored
right outside the museum building
and went about trying to understand the
horrors of what the soldiers on both sides must have undergone for the next
four years while their generals experimented with various forms of trench
warfare tactics including the use of poison gas. Quite a sobering experience
indeed!
In Flanders fields the poppies blow
Between the crosses, row on row,
That mark our place; and in the sky
The larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below.
We are the Dead. Short days ago
We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
Loved and were loved, and now we lie
In Flanders fields.
Take up our quarrel with the foe:
To you from failing hands we throw
The torch; be yours to hold it high.
If ye break faith with us who die
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
In Flanders fields.
Major John MaCrae - May 1915
After that we needed a beer at the nearby Dodengang pub
and then it was back to the boats and off to Diksmuide where we tied up at De Ijzervaardes marina with the huge Izertoring and Paxpoort looming above us.
Our havenmeester and Club secretary Willy plied us with
maps and information about Diksmuide so after a delicious lunch of golden bream
on fresh asparagus and endives smothered with mousseline sauce
we carried the bikes up to the road level and rode the
suggested cycle route around and through the town, visiting the old Vismarkt
the Papegaei brewery outlet for a tasting (and a purchase...)
The Beginhof, most of which is now a sanatorium, with its adjoining chapel ,
the park with its memorial to the French Naval Fusiliers (Marines?)
and the Grote Markt with the The City Hall and
neighbouring Saint Nicolas Church both of which were completely rebuilt after
World War I in the Gothic style of the 14th and 15th centuries.
 |
| One of a pair which used to top the spire, it bears the wounds of war. |
An excellent and informative day! We might even leave our boat here over summer if Kuurne will agree to refund our money.
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