Ath to Geraardsbergen (aka Grammont)

12 October 2015

Another decidedly cool morning greeted, and by the time the lockies had passed in their ubiquitous van we had de-misted windows, topped up with water after great showers, brought in the electricity connection and were ready to head north again. At the first lock Master Sulky was nowhere to be seen although I could have sworn that he was in the van which had just passed; instead, his graying colleague, totally tethered to his cell phone, slowly started the process of preparing the lock, all the while talking avidly to an Apple.

One gate opened, another gate opened, in we go. One sluice closed, another sluice closed, one gate closed, walk around the lock, another gate closed. Now to let the water out…I think you get the picture. All the while Master Sulky was still AWOL but Lynn did mention that she thought she saw him climbing back into the van, having returned from who knows where.

At the next lock Mr Cheerful Apple who actually spoke some Anglais began the whole process all on his own again – agonizingly slowly but in good cheer. The lock is adjacent to one of the Belgian Waterways Authority offices and through the window we could see an official gesturing to Master Sulky in a way only the French can perfect, and My Sulky standing, arms akimbo, obviously disagreeing with what was being said. Chilled Mr Apple’s comment was “My colleague does not like working weekends, especially Sundays” and he continued his electronic conversation with goodness knows whom whilst almost simultaneously winding away at lock gates. That went a little way to explaining our experiences of yesterday.

Master Sulky, who shall henceforth be known as Master Sulky-Lazy, eventually emerged from the office and climbed straight back into the van, taking no further part in the operation much to the bemusement of his colleague and, no doubt, continued to sulk.

After leaving this lock we were bad farewell by the Cheerful Grey Haired Device who assured us that he would phone ahead to the next lock to make sure the new team were ready for us on our arrival and for the subsequent seven locks and eight lifting bridges, but maybe the Device would not let go long enough for him to make the call because, sure enough, at the next lock there was not an operator to be seen. Our device and Lynn’s French work a little better and after half an hour another of the little white vans arrived, disgorged two fine examples of blue-overall’d and mightily competent lock operators, one wearing a Russian inspired cap, and our passage through the last of Wallonia and along the Dender River into Flanders was a joy to experience and behold. Well done Sirs!

The A Team!

We had heard that the Dender was a pretty waterway but it is actually really gorgeous; like the Kroome Leie without the development and far better quality water. Belgian Blues and horses of every size and description everywhere, waterfowl paddling and pecking through the overhanging, green and amber and butter coloured trees lining the banks, folk walking dogs, cycling, fishing and hiking, and old iron rail bridges criss-crossing the waterway from time to time. So, so beautiful and tranquil apart from the dirty side of Lessines which we were obliged to pass through and where the Njordians had moored some weeks before.

A scene out of Mad Max?

Adjacent to where the Njordians moored in Lessines

Presently hills began to appear and in no time at all we had passed the landmark ‘Mystery Airplane’, a Skymaster C-54

(story here http://www.frankfurt-aviation-friends.de/history/n90443-the-magical-mystery-plane/ ) and were in Geraardsbergen (Grammont in French - and English it would appear) where we tied up at the very end of the duck-poo strewn pontoon managed by the local VVW club, having been assured that someone would be around at 18h00 to connect electricity and water and should we require, of course, to take a fee.

Geraardsbergen mooring

Having averaged between 9C and 11C for most of the day, the weather warmed up to a sultry 15C and we were off on our bikes to explore the town, especially well known, it would seem, for being a dangerous section of the Tour De Belgium and for having some pretty old buildings

In fact the town is a stunner!

Across the nearest lifting bridge and up the hill we discovered a most picturesque, café-lined square with ancient Town Hall

Gothic fountain - oldest in S Belgium.

City Hall with 15th Century Manneken Pis fountain.

Manneken Pis

and equally old church with a mind boggling Baroque interior, one of the most eye-catching we have ever seen.

Back across the bridge was the shopping and restaurant district but small and quaint, almost like a miniature Brugge-cross-Kortrijk. Having eBiked most of ‘The Wall’ (when will the pedal pushers ever learn?) and ridden through the Sint-Adriaansabdij (St Adrian’s Abbey)

A strange sculpture dedicated to Dogs

The Abbey

we enjoyed the afternoon sun at a café before returning to Elle, some supper and tuck-in time with  icy sheets and freezing footsies – somewhere we WILL find a hot water bottle for Madame and hopefully someone from the VVW will arrive tomorrow to connect us up to the electricity supply so the small electric heater can be put o good use..