Canal Des Vosges: PK115 to Fontenoy-le-Chateau.

5 to 8 June 2017

11.4 kilometers, 10 locks.

Monday 5 June: PK115 to Amarrage de Coney (PK119.4) – 4 locks, 4.4 kilometers.

We thought that we would visit the Roman Baths in Bains les Bains so it was up lines for the short cruise to PK119.4 where there is a delightful mooring with water,

It's one of 'those' water arrangements.

close to the nearby Auberge Du Coney.

With rainy, windy weather about, reading away the day seemed a good idea until the call of the still un-christened boules became too much and we finally had our game of petanque on the clay roadway adjacent to the mooring.

Tuesday, the bikes unloaded and off we went to Bains les Baines, eventually finding a sparsely populated little town with a somewhat unfriendly tourist office and a building which seemed to house the Baths but which was locked with no sign that it was open to the public. So, after visiting the pretty church,

we rode back to Elle, passing the apparently highly rated but almost deserted Manufacture Royale  or Royal Tin Manufacturer,

Erected in 1733 - 2/3rds of France's tin was manufactured here.

and had a most enjoyable lunch at the auberge.

Wednesday 7 June: Amarrage de Coney to Fontenoy-le-Chateau: 6 kilometers, 6 locks.

In beautiful warm weather we relaxed over the short distance to Fontenoy where there was space a plenty on the long visitors quay so we nestled in behind Pferdinand (an ex-hireboat from the Khunle Tours fleet – not very pretty but immensely functional) and next to the row of Le Boat cruisers.

Looking downstream

The port from the bridge.

After having confirmed with the young lady receptionist that our choice of berth was not in anyone’s way I returned to the boat for a shower while Lynn went back to the reception to pay for our two nights mooring to be met by a sullen, non-English speaking male employee who took the money without even a greeting. Later, when Lynn went back to enquire whether there was a washing machine, she got a curt “Non’ despite there being one whirling away in the background.

A Dutch Canadian lady who was in reception recommended the plat at the hotel where she and her husband were staying while waiting for their newly acquired, ex-Le Boat cruiser, which was being refurbished. We had also had the restaurant at the town of Selles recommended but a Google search showed that the menu of the latter was none too interesting

so we decided to stay an extra day and have lunch at Fontenoy’s Le Moulin Cotant on Saturday.

Thursday was an absolute peach of a day so bikes were unloaded and a tour of the town undertaken.

The bridge from the port to the town over the river Coney

The river Coney, a tributary of the Saone, which flows into the Med

Not working and prices shown in Francs

A town of quotations - all over the place!

First it was up to the 15^thC ‘flamboyant Gothic’ church (sadly the lacework and metal museum was closed),

Mairie left and lace museum right.

Is there something Masonic in this window?

Then on to the ruins of the chateau, once the seat of the Lords of Fontenoy who were also the Counts of Toul. The tower was built around 980 by the Bishops of Toul to control the route between Burgundy and Lorraine. Militarily destroyed during the Thirty Years War, much of the remaining stonework was sold by Revolutionaries. Today, an association ‘Les Amis de Vieux Fontenoy’ is working on restoring the Tower.

Restoration works.

Then through the town to the next village of Le Magny

Rangali locking through at Le Magny

where we crossed the canal and river and cycled back into Fontenoy

and then into the countryside

A fine specimen.

before returning to Elle for lunch

Rangali arriving at the port.

and an early evening game of petanque. In front of us was a small Dutch cruiser Magaret-Christine and we got chatting to the owners. He and his dad built the boat forty-six years ago and they have been cruising her ever since!

A lovely small town with many hidden delights but unfortunately the attitude of the Le Boat hombre so irritated us that we decided to leave a day early…pity.

A view to die for.