Dinant to Fumay (almost) and then to Haybes

Saturday 25 June

50 kilometers, 11 locks, 1 tunnel, 9.5 hours (current up to 4kph in places).

And finally, off we go to France.

An early departure, past Jean-Pierre who is up and about to wave us on, past the Bayard Rock (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bayard_(legend)), through the ‘striking’ Anseremme lock, past Gem at Waulsort, and finally up to the Givet lock where we see the lights go to red-green (preparing the lock) – and only one door opens. Oh bloody no! But it is wide enough for the boat inside to exit and, thankfully, for us to squeeze into – France at last, despite being three weeks late. The brilliant lockie, happy to converse in English, gives us maps and brochures and the tele-commander and instructions on how to use it.

The locks from here to Charleville-Mezieres, some 50 kilometres upstream, are automatic.

Then it’s through Givet with its still-closed-Port de Pllaisance, and up to the small lock just before the Ham tunnel when the heavens, just on cue, opened. A lovely young lady (student?) locked us through (no, the locks are not automated until after the tunnel) and with a bit of claustrophobic induced trepidation we entered the tunnel only to find that the exit some 600 meters away seemed right in our faces and the reportedly uber-low tunnel was like a cavern.

Maybe they had lowered the water for the tourist boat Charlemagne behind us but we loved the experience. Good lights are necessary however.

The rain eased and we enjoyed a scenic cruise to Fumay apart from the small lock just before the town which had a wicked cross-current and against which I lost our first paintwork.

The Fumay quay was ribbon'd off for a fishing competition the next day so we about-turned and tied up at the delightful Haybes quay – despite what others might say, a better option. And here we were in France at last!

Haybes is a quiet little town which suited us perfectly.

The Marie right outside our saloon window.

We cycled to Fumay the next morning where a broucant had been set up parallel to the quayside (which was deserted, the fishing competition taking place further upstream), visited the stately church (closed despite it being 10h00 on a Sunday morning), and moi struggled to the top of the hill (with Madame buzzing back and forth enquiring as to the steepness of the hill) to get provisions from the Carrefour. The more we saw of Fumay the more pleased we were to be moored in Haybes. Also met a delightful English couple, Peter & Mary, aboard Second Melody.